The Admiral’s House! It was to this very prestigious address that I had been invited for a long weekend on Bere Island, County Cork, Ireland. Mindful of the fate of the Titanic, I averted my gaze on leaving the mainland and refused to contemplate how the semi submerged remains of what may well have been the ferries of yesteryear ended up on the bottom of the harbour
Above, birds enjoying the remains of a boat at Pontoon ferry departure point, Castletownbere where another once-proud vessel lies abandoned(below)
I committed myself and my vehicle to the capable hands of Murphy’s Ferries to make the short crossing to Bere Island. I cautiously looked around for the lifeboats. None! OK. if my time is up, it is up and I will sink into beautiful Bantry Bay, the deepest natural harbour in Europe!There was a brief heart-stopping moment when, about 2/3rd of the way across, I saw what appeared to be a mast and a funnel poking out of the water. Could this have been a ferry? No –too big! A bigger REAL ship perhaps? It turned out to be the wreck of the M.V Bardini Reefer, a Panamanian Factory Fishing Vessel, that on 15 December 1982 caught fire and sank!
However, our trusty ferry arrived safe and sound, as it always does, and soon I was enjoying negotiating the narrow, high hedged roads and laneways of Bere Island. The Admiral’s House did not disappoint with its imposing views of Bantry bay and the mainland.
An image of the Admiral’s House from The Admiral’s House webpage!
And so began a few days of discovery – spectacular views; gorgeous lanes edged by beautiful linear meadows and hedgerows; loud silence in marked contrast to military emplacements that once guarded the entrance to Bantry Bay.
Bere is a place for walkers. Suitably clad to deal with changes in temperature and sudden heavy short-lived showers, we headed off on the Rerrin Loop. Rerrin, the small village is at the eastern end of the island, where the Irish Army still has a presence.
At the eastern end of the island stands an impressive gun emplacement, guarded by a deep moat and kept mown by a herd of goats who share this place with a couple of colonies of bats. It is hoped that eventually this spot can be developed into a unique tourist attraction.
Another noticeable feature of the island is the number of ruined and abandoned stone cottages . Abandoned perhaps because of migration, death or for an upgrade to more modern conditions. Whatever the reason, they leave an indelible mark on the landscape of places that perhaps once resounded with the sounds of children playing and laughing, but are now in deep silence.
This cottage, on the roadside has an intriguing stone set into the wall engraved with the date June 1854 – it would be fascinating to discover the significance of this date to the people who lived here once upon a time.
Bere Island has a rich heritage. Vikings, French and British have landed here and the island monuments reflect this varied history. Among the older monuments is the Standing Stone (below) dating from at least a millennium BC . This impressive stone stands at the very centre of the island.
Bere is a place of extraordinary beauty, a place of great peace – far from the hustle, bustle and humdrum of every day life.
Murphy’s Ferry leaving Bere Island (Image from D Shiels)
Information on Martello Towers can be seen here
Information on Bere Island here